Three-stone Rings – it’s a thing!

August 22, 2020

Reinventing the wheel with a renewed femininity!

Three-Stone rings are back and taking on a life of their own, as couples dare to get more creative with shape and side-stone options.

Don’t be deterred by the traditionally cumbersome three-stone settings of the past, we have modernized the metalwork, slimming it right down, and have made the three-stone ring a lot more refined than your mother and grandmothers!

Streamlined and ultra-elegant, we have reinvented the wheel with a renewed femininity that’s flattering to every hand. Add to that our latest addition, a three-stone ring designed to sit perfectly flush a wedding band! For many, the traditional basket structure of the three-stone ring has meant they can’t fit their wedding bands flush to their engagement ring, and while some don’t mind, for others, that’s a deal-breaker. So we have spent the downtime in 2020 tackling that problem with a brand new design!

Our perfectly flush-fitting three-stone design!

One of the most exciting things about a three-stone ring is just how much you can vary the look, from an Art-Deco inspired design to something more floral and curvaceous. The beauty of a three-stone look is the added dimension, creating a wider look with more coverage, whilst upping the sparkle considerably!

You have options, and lots of them, from the center stone shape you choose to the side stones that frame it, so we thought we’d exhaust the options with you, and give you a full glossary of three-stone looks!

The top Eight Center Stone shapes for three-stone rings:


Don’t forget, the side stones will also influence the look. Adding a soft or curvaceous shape, like a pear side stone, to something more geometrical like a radiant or Emerald cut, will instantly soften up the look and create a more feminine appeal. On the other hand, adding tapered baguettes or trapezoids to a rounded stone can make it more structured and tailored. So there is a lot of room to play.

So, let’s talked side stones:

The tapered baguette is a beautiful way to add structure and graphic lines to a piece while maintaining the elegance of the gradual taper from the center stone to the slimmer band. There are several ways of setting a Baguette, the classic prong look is always an option, but above you can see both a bar setting (the images on the left) and a channel style setting, as on the right. We favor these settings for baguettes as it adds more protection to the stone while complimenting the linear style of the cut.

Whether you are embracing the 1920s charm of an Art Deco look, or you simply like clean lines and balance, Straight Baguettes and Emerald cuts will make striking side-stone options. The both have step-cut similarities, but the Emerald cut is that much deeper.

Trapezoids! One of the most popular side-stones, this solid cut is both bold and elegant, and especially flatters straight-sided center stones like Emerald cuts, Radiants, and Princess cut shapes. The variances in size, depth, and angle can vary greatly, allowing you to really tailor your look specific to your taste. You’ll notice the Trapezoids in the above photo look quite distinctly different, and we’ll explain that further below!

Our current sweetheart du jour, the pear cut makes such an elegant side-stone and often surprises people how naturally it compliments every setting. With its rounded base and voluptuous belly, tapering to a naturally fine apex, it adds femininity to any center stone, and can soften even the most angular of pairings. We use pears a lot in our three-stone settings, as it is a look that never fails to wow!

Less known but quickly loved, the Trillion is a triangle cut, exquisitely faceted for maximum sparkle, this cut also creates a beautiful tapering look, and adds a bit of edge while at it!


Two very different looks, but for those of you who love your curves, both of these are ones to consider! The “crescent-moon” was a cut that our designer, Douglas Elliott, actually instigated! A rebellious move in the industry at the time, Douglas recut two moons to cup the shape of the center stone, and created the Crescent Moon!


When you really want to go down a rabbit hole, there are a whole host of stone shapes that make for stunning side stones. Many have similar characteristics but feature slightly differentiating details, like clipped corners, a taper, or a curve, and that can change the overall look and sway your setting.

Here are a few more striking options worth noting:


With characteristics akin to the pear, the Marquise is more symmetrical, coming to a point at each end. The elongated shape of the marquise pulls it out further from the center stone, creating a very pretty flourish to a design.

Similar to a Baguette in many ways, these flaunt the same angular elegance, however, they take it a step further with the pointed end.

Kind of like a Half-moon meets a Trapezoid. The chevron has the curved swell of the moon, but with neat, clipped edges, and a slight point that would lead into the band.

We mention Trillions above, but there is a twist within the same family, which is a “calf-head cut”. Perhaps not the most elegant of names, but we do love the cut, as the clipped corners on the classic triangle shape are very complementary of shapes such as a Radiant cut.

Again, the classic Shield is not dissimilar to a Tapered Bullet, it just features clipped corners on the top edge of the cut, ever so slightly changing the profile. All little details, but if you are detail orientated, these might make or break a look for you. The heater shield is very different, and in fact, named after the classic shape of an iron. This has a lot in common with the shape of a pear, but clips the bottom of it off, which might be favorable if you want a flush, more seamless look between your center stone and the tapering side stones.

Another variation to throw into the mix, again, with similarities to the moons and the chevrons, but with a charisma of their own. The straight edges make them particularly favorable to straight-edged stones, like Radiants and Emeralds, but can surprise you on an Oval!

Different again, and two variations on the theme. These are less commonly seen, but no less loved by us! Dynamic and pretty fascinating cuts, these have similar attributes to a shield, and even the pear and marquise, but without the rounded softness, as the angular sides are strong features of these striking cuts.

This is where we get to create and innovate! We are happy to pull in the side stones of your inspiration and build out a unique look with you.

One more thing to consider…

Step Cut Vs Brilliant Cut

Okay, now here is where we throw a curveball. Even within a stone shape, there are two different kinds of cuts, and you may have a strong preference for one over another – step-cut versus brilliant cut.

The key difference between a Step-cut and a Brilliant cut is the amount of sparkle. Brilliant cuts possess more facets than step cuts, and the facets are triangular and kite-shaped, lending themselves to lots of light dispersion, and a more glittery, crushed ice appearance.

Step cuts have fewer facets, and the facets are parallel cut, usually rectangular or square in shape, creating that hall of mirrors optic. This cut still has plenty of fire and sparkle, but of a different nature than brilliant cuts, it’s more like bright flashes of light, rather than an endless glittering sparkle.
Step cuts are considered a very elegant cut with a sleek look that often appeals to vintage jewelry lovers and minimalists. Although step cuts twinkle a little less, they do provide a better showcase of a diamond’s clarity, with their glassy, open interiors hiding very little.

To help you grasp what you may have seen and not understood, the classic Round shaped diamond, Ovals, Cushions, and Pear cuts are all brilliant-cut stones, whereas an Emerald cut or an Asscher, in their glacier-like brilliance, are step cut.

Let’s take a look at how Brilliant cut step-cut faceting can change the look of some classic side stones. You will quickly notice a crushed iced look versus a linear, more angled look.

Don’t get too caught up in all these details, they are purely here as a point of reference and inspiration! Our job as diamond experts and your design team is to guide you to the perfect end result, tailored specifically for you.

If you have no idea what you want, call to make an appointment or pop in at your leisure, and a member of our team will walk you through every shape and style, and we’ll get you there. It’s our job to notice what lights you up and flatters your hand, and help you navigate your options to find your that “one” that feels like your match. It’s kind of like dating, but without the trauma 😉

Call us today, or email our team at [email protected], and we will be delighted to help you!

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